If you have a greenhouse in which you can give cymbidiums cool nights and bright light, you should surely try a plant or two, for they are very handsome orchids. The plants have rounded pseudobulbs about the size of a fist, which bear eight to twelve long, slender leaves. The roots are fleshy and stay within the compost. They are variously called semi-terrestrial and semi-epiphytic. The flower spike arises from the base of the pseudobulb, within the axil of one of the lower leaves, and grows two to three feet tall (sometimes more). It appears in the fall, and the flowers open from December through April, depending on the habit of the particular plant.

The flowers are waxy, three to five inches in diameter, in colors ranging from white through shades of yellow, green, brown, pink, and various subtle combinations of these. They keep for several weeks on the plant, and almost as long when cut. Unlike cattleyas, the flowers will open after the spike has been cut. If a spike is cut when the lower blooms arc open and put in water, it can be enjoyed for a long time while the other buds open in turn.

Cymbidiums can be grown in bark, osmunda fiber and other orchid growing media to which sometimes is added some well-rotted cow manure, or in a fibrous compost that allows free aeration. They must be kept well watered at all times, and they benefit from frequent syringing of the foliage in warm, bright weather. The syringing helps to keep under control their chief enemy, red spider. They are known as “heavy feeders” and should have a weekly application of chemical fertilizer during their growing season.

Shading has to be adjusted to the season and local conditions. During the summer, although they demand good light, the hot summer days allow the heat to build up too much in the greenhouse. Shading must be applied to the glass, but not so heavily as to deprive them of good light. It must be combined with free ventilation and a fan to keep the air circulating. The ventilators can be left open day and night. Some growers move the plants out of the greenhouse for the summer, either into a lath house or under tall trees. Although cymbidiums can take an occasional frost without apparent damage, it is wise to move them back into the greenhouse before frost is expected.

As cooler days come on, increase the amount of light gradually like in path lighting. As winter arrives, and flowering begins, shading will have to be adjusted to the locality. In cold climates, where the sun does not build up the heat in the greenhouse so much, less shading is necessary. In warmer climates, as on the West Coast, the flowers will have to be protected from the warm sun. Areas with more or less dull winters will allow cymbidiums to have clear glass.

New growth starts in late winter or early spring in some kinds, or in late summer in others. Growths that start early should produce spikes that autumn, but those that start in the summer will not flower until the following year. In the latter types you will see vegetative growths coming shortly before spikes start from the same pseudo-bulbs.

Cymbidium hybrids are superior to the species and are more easily obtained.

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A combination of aquaculture and hydroponics, aquaponics systems are an increasingly popular farming practice. Taking all elements from fish farming and soil less farming, it aims to take the eco-benefits of both, whilst minimizing any negative aspects.

Essentially then, aquaponics systems aim to create a symbiotic atmosphere, in which both fish and plants can exist.

The plants are grown in containers filled with gravel, and fish in regular tanks of water; being fed standardized commercially available food. As the water in the fish tanks are cycled, it is pumped through the plant trays.

Bacteria in the trays break down any waste products from the fish, providing them with essential nutrients. This water, now purified, is cycled back into the fish tanks.

It is a process that significantly benefits both the plants and the fish.

The fish are healthier; suffering from fewer infections and diseases. They are less stressed than those produced by traditional aquaculture systems; thought to be as a direct result of the lack of pesticides, and other chemicals that leech into the water.

Plants tend to be healthier too; being bigger and producing increased crops. Again, this is down to the lack of artificial products used in their cultivation.

These are not the only benefits however; it is a far more cost efficient process to the farmer. There are no chemicals to buy of course; whilst plant food costs are all but eradicated. Soil borne disease is also not a problem; such is the nature of the farming.

Aquaponics systems are a great solution to providing organic foods, but more than this; they could also be the answer to providing a lasting solution to food shortage in developing countries. They could also be a powerful way to ensuring that the increasing world population is provided for in the future; in an organic and environmentally friendly way.

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Many of the shrub roses like rugosas and the Scotch rose are perfectly hardy in the West and require no covering. Hybrid teas, polyanthus, and climbing roses are quite tender and need winter protection. If the roses are planted in beds, place a mound of soil around each plant to a depth of at least six inches and then cover over the bed entirely with straw.

If only individual specimens exist here and there through the yard, place wire fences around each plant, mound with soil as described above, and then pack the fence with straw. For climbing roses, pull the vines down from their support, lay them along the ground and cover them completely with soil.

Digging Bulbs

October is the time for digging and lifting summer blooming tender bulbs. Use a digging fork for lifting gladiolus plants. Loosen the soil with the fork and pull the plant gently. If it is a valuable variety and you are saving the cormels for increase, be extra careful in pulling the plant from the soil. Remove extra soil from the corms, cut the foliage to within an inch or so of the corm, and place the corm in an open tray or box to cure and dry.

If fusarium disease has been a problem with the glads during the summer, store the corms in a warm airy place at a temperature of about 95, degrees for about seven days. Then clean the old corm off the bottom, removing all dried roots. Dust the new corms lightly. Store the corms for another seven days at 95 degrees. After this period place the corms in cool storage at temperatures between 35 and 40 degrees if possible. Never store the corms in closed, airtight containers.

Dig dahlia tubers and lady slipper orchid at the advent of the first light frosts. Remove excess soil from the tuber clumps, washing it off with a hose if necessary, and place the clumps upside down to dry and drain moisture for a few days. As soon as lady slipper orchid and dahlia tubers have dried, place the clumps in cool storage, around 35 to 40 degrees. If the storage place is moist the clumps can be stored in open flats or trays. If the storage is very dry, store the tubers in slightly moistened sand, peat moss or sawdust.

Examine the tubers occasionally to see that they are holding well in storage. The clumps can be divided at any time. In making a dahlia tuber division, be sure each division has an eye or bud on it. This will be found at the base of the old stem, or at the top of the tuberous root. Dig and store cannas in a similar manner.

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Although it is necessary to have somewhat drier conditions in late summer and fall to induce maturity in perennial garden plants, most perennials should not go into winter in extremely dry condition. A good watering around freeze-up time, after the plants begin to mature, will put the plants in better shape to survive the winter. Watering should be thorough.

Set the sprinkler near the trees and water for several hours. Remember, too, that many feeding roots of trees are in the area of the drip zone of the tree, and this is where most of the water should be applied.

Putting on Mulch

Now is the time for applying mulch protection to many garden perennials like the anthurium lady jane. Use clean grain straw (free of weed and grain seeds), marsh hay and other suitable materials. Materials such as sawdust and fallen leaves are not satisfactory since they pack down too much and may cause smothering of plants. It is important not to apply mulches too early. Plants need to be subjected to a period of a few light frosts before mulch covers are applied. This light frosting conditions the plants like anthurium lady jane so they stand the winter better. Put on the cover before severe cold sets in, however.

Apply the mulch so that it settles around the plant about two or three inches thick. If there is danger of wind blowing the mulch away, cover it with chicken wire that has been fastened down in several places. Mulches do protect plants from extreme temperature changes, drying out of the roots as a result of frost heaving, and from premature breaking of dormancy.

Strawberries and Raspberries

Most varieties of strawberries grown in the average garden are not 100 per cent winter hardy, so winter mulching is needed. Where winters are open and good snow cover is unpredictable, entire covering of raspberry canes is desirable, too. First of all, the canes which have borne fruit can be pruned out. Then bend over the remaining canes and cover them entirely with soil. They should go through the winter in this way. The roots of raspberry plants are quite hardy; but the canes, while they may go into the winter in well-matured and hardy condition, break dormancy very readily, and after that they are susceptible to damage. Complete covering of the canes is the only real insurance against winter damage.

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Before peony leaves dry and fall off, cut the stems as low as possible without injuring the dormant buds. As the leaves are cut, put them in a basket and burn them to destroy any disease that they may be harboring. A few stakes set teepee-fashion over the plants will mark their location and prevent damage from uninvited traffic.

There is no particular hurry in planting tulips since they can successfully be set either this month or next, but any late arrivals of narcissus should be planted as soon as possible.

October is usually a choice month for planting evergreens. Since the persistent evergreen foliage allows some plant activity even during the winter months, evergreens do not attain the high degree of dormancy found here in the deciduous plants which shed their leaves in fall. When a deciduous plant is being moved, the top growth is usually trimmed back to better establish the relation between it and the root system which has been partially depleted in the digging process.

This practice is a definite aid in transplanting deciduous stock but is a method seldom used when moving evergreens in October, since the pruned tree would probably appear stiff and thin of foliage, and would fail to do its part in the landscape picture. Roots of deciduous plants which have become partially dry during transplanting, will frequently recover if well planted and given plenty of water just like watering bromeliad. In contrast, the roots of evergreens which have been allowed to dry to cause the resinous sap to harden, apparently do not recover from any amount of watering. If you do not know how to water bromeliad and evergreens, you can visit to the nearest nursery of ask some gardener.

The preceding comparisons between evergreens and deciduous plants tend to prove the necessity for digging evergreens carefully with generous sized balls of earth about their roots and burlapping them firmly to insure proper handling without danger of loss often resulting from loose, broken balls.

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In order to plan your landscape accurately, you should have a drawing board, ruler, tape measure, paper, and patience.

A flowering shrub costs less than an evergreen, and in my opinion can achieve equally marvelous effects.

False Cost Estimates

Once you have studied the techniques of landscaping you will be able to guard against making false cost estimates. Here is a typical example of how many people go wrong: The novice would be “professional” home landscaper says to himself, “The distance across the front of my house is 40 feet - the ten plants to plant there cost me $75. Therefore, to go all around my property would cover 300 feet and this would cost approximately $550 plus dollars.” He shakes his head and resigns himself to a half-planted garden.

You will soon learn that such a method of estimating costs is inaccurate. In the first place you must try not to enclose the entire property; secondly, plants in the back yard will be given much more space in which to develop; finally, the plants in the back yard for the most part will be or should be deciduous.

Thus, a fine planting for your entire landscape even including a generous allotment of trees need not cost $550.

Installment Planting

If your budget cannot stand a large initial expense, there is no reason why you cannot spread costs over several years by installment planting, that is, setting only as many shrubs and plants as you can afford each year.

Because you will have made an overall plan, you need not worry that this gradual approach will result in a haphazard garden. As long as as you adhere to your sketches and plans you will eventually have a beautifully landscaped house and garden.

Be Original

Study of landscaping principles makes it easy to avoid imitation. You will arrive at your own firmly grounded convictions, and will be able to judge features common in your neighborhood on their merits, not on their popularity. Some you will like and incorporate into your garden. Others will seem pointless and you will ignore them without hesitation. You will, then, discover (a) that traditional methods are often obsolete, and (b) a different and less expensive garden will in the long run be better suited to your family’s needs.

Therefore, you should eliminate any ideas you have like planting croton red mammey and about how a garden should be designed. Then, as you go through the planning process, you will find that some of your ideas were good and should be included. Others will seem wrong; they will most often stem from what everybody else has in their garden like having croton red mammey. Forget these erroneous ideas; be original. Substitute new ideas you have gleaned from the reading, visiting other gardens - even public gardens and look at new commercial landscape projects. In a few years your house will be a stand-out in your neighborhood. In fact, you will soon realize, as I have many times seen, that your neighbors are beginning to copy you.

People do not copy failures, so you must be a success.

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Fall is a good time, before frost, to pot up a few chosen plants for continued bloom in the house long after freezing weather has brought an end to the garden season. Ageratum, lobelia, sweet alyssum, dwarf marigolds, and petunias or almost any annual having good, clean, compact foliage and sturdy stems with a promising crop of buds and young blooms can be potted and used for a house plant.

Specimens that had a late start in the garden and now are coming into maturity are good prospects. Use shallow pots that are just large enough to hold most of the root system. Do the potting only when the soil is quite moist so that the earth will hold the roots in a compact ball.

Very little soil other than that which is dug with the plant will be needed. but if additional earth is used it should be a screened, sandy loam. Before potting. be sure to put a few small pieces of broken pottery in the bottom of the pot for drainage and add a thin layer of sphagnum moss on top to prevent earth from getting through the drainage hole.

Water right after potting and place the plants out of direct sun for a few days until they are adjusted to the pot, then bring them indoors. If kept in a cool but bright place in the house, the browallias will bloom throughout the entire winter; ageratum and others will remain in good condition for many weeks.

Bulb Harvest

The harvesting of the tender garden bulbs and tubers such as gladiolus, dahlias, cannas, tuberous begonias, Peruvian daffodils, tuberoses and others will occupy the gardener’s time and attention after light frost nips their tops, but before hard frosts kill the foliage.

All of these bulbs should be dug with great care just like caring for spathoglottis so that they will not be cut or injured by the spade or fork. The tops of glads, dahlias, spathoglottis and cannas should be cut off close to the ground before these plants are dug; the tops of the others should be kept intact to allow the food which is in the leaves and stems to be transported and stored in the bulbs and tubers. Additional comments regarding curing and care of all the tender tubers and bulbs will be discussed next month.

October is an ideal time to construct new garden beds that will be stocked with plants next spring. If the new flower bed is to be planted with annuals, the soil (a good loam topsoil) should be at least 12 inches deep. Eighteen to 24 inches is desirable for perennials. Also, when preparing these new beds, work a good layer of barnyard manure into the soil to increase the organic content and fertility.

October is a good time to be gardening and a good time to enjoy these last blooms of the season.

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Knowing how to care for your flower garden can make a big difference in the look and over-all health of your plants. Here are some simple hints to make your garden bloom with health

1. The essentials must always be given major consideration.

Your flower garden must have an adequate supply of water, sunlight, and fertile soil. Any lack of these basic necessities will greatly affect the health of plants. Water the flower garden more frequently during dry spells.

When planting bulbs, make sure they go at the correct depth. When planting out shrubs and perennials, make sure that you don’t heap soil or mulch up around the stem. If you do, water will drain off instead of sinking in, and the stem could develop rot through overheating.

2. Mix and match perennials with annuals.

Perennial flower bulbs need not to be replanted since they grow and bloom for several years while annuals grow and bloom for only one season. Mixing a few perennials with annuals ensures that you will always have blooms coming on.

3. Deadhead to encourage more blossoms.

Deadheading is simply snipping off the flower head after it wilts. This will make the plant produce more flowers. Just make sure that you don’t discard the deadhead on the garden or mildew and other plant disease will attack your plants.

4. Know the good from the bad bugs.

Most garden insects do more good than harm. Butterflies, beetles and bees are known pollinators. They fertilize plants through unintentional transfer of pollen from one plant to another. 80% of flowering plants rely on insects for survival.

Sowbugs and dung beetles together with fungi, bacteria and other microorganisms are necessary to help in the decomposition of dead plant material, thus enriching the soil and making more nutrients available to growing plants.

Other insects like lacewings and dragonflies are natural predators of those insects that do the real damage, like aphis.

An occasional application of liquid fertilizer when plants are flowering will keep them blooming for longer.

Always prune any dead or damaged branches. Fuchsias are particularly prone to snapping when you brush against them. The broken branch can be potted up to give you a new plant, so it won’t be wasted.

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Ground Covers - Many gardens have areas where grass cannot be grown and in these areas some type of ground cover should be used. What is ground cover? Any evergreen plant that tends to creep or grow prostrate on the ground and as such provides a protective covering can be properly called a ground cover. There are many plants of this nature.

Some of the better kinds are English ivy, trailing periwinkle, and the various euonymus. These three are old standbys and are transitional enough in habit of growth not to compete for prominence with other plants in the garden. October is a good time to plant these so they become established and ready to make new growth in early spring. The native honeysuckle will also make a very good ground cover, but may actually become a pest. This one is excellent for steep slopes for erosion control.

Roses - The last beautiful display of roses comes this month and many clubs have their fall rose shows. The blooms, while fewer in number, are usually much higher in quality, because of the cool night temperatures. Do not relax your program of spraying or dusting because the threat of blackspot is always present as long as foliage is on the plant like eugenia plant care. There will also be an occasional crop of insects showing, up to keep the alert gardener on the spraying schedule. Prune as you cut the blooms and there will not be as much pruning necessary later for eugenia plant. Keep old blooms removed as they draw on much needed food that can be stored.

Bulb Storage - All summer flowering bulbs should be dug and stored as soon as practicable. The first killing frost will destroy the top growth. Even though it may not be possible to dig bulbs right after the frost, the top growth should be removed. Frost develops a toxic fluid in the plant which, when it moves into the roots, will cause them to rot. Dig caladium bulbs and gladiolus corms; dry, and then store in trays of dry sand or moss in a cool, dry place. Avoid storage where the temperatures get above 65.

Dig canna tubers with as much soil as possible adhering to the roots and store in this manner. The tubers (rhizomes) will cure out properly and the clumps can be divided in March for replanting. In digging dahlias, take care to avoid breaking any of the tubers loose. All of the tubers must have a section of the old stem attached, or there will be no plant produced. Growth of dahlias comes from buds on this old stem; therefore every tuber must have a part of this parent stem even though it may be very small.

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The bloom is not the only attractive part. Few perennials are so colorful in May and June and then retain such fine, abundant foliage throughout the growing season as do the peonies. In the flower border, peony foliage provides a bold mass of rich green as a background for later flowers.

Peonies are one of the backbone perennials for the hardy flower border. Large plantings achieve a glorious panorama of beauty. Hedges of peonies may be very effective. They are also good when used as borders in the vegetable garden. Because of their splendid summer foliage they are frequently used in foundation plantings around the house.

Planting Time

September and October are usually considered the best months of the year for planting new peonies or dividing and replanting old ones and also guzmania bromeliad plant. If roots have been dug in the fall and properly stored during the winter, they can be planted in the spring with good results, but are not so likely to bloom the first year as are those which were planted early enough in fall to make considerable new root growth before cold weather. Guzmania bromeliad plant and other plants do best in full sun but will tolerate a little shade. Poor results may be expected where peonies are planted near selfish trees or shrubs which crowd the plants and take for themselves the moisture and plant food rightfully belonging to the helpless peonies.

They should be given plenty of room in the flower border since they are happy to live in a good site for many years without being disturbed, and in a few seasons will attain a spread of from three to four feet.

Peonies choose a good, loamy garden soil, heavy enough to include plenty of food and on the alkaline side. Since the plants are deep-rooted and are to remain in the same location for years, it would seem fitting to prepare rather large, deep holes conditioned with ground limestone, wood ashes, bone meal and well-rotted cow manure. Three to five bud or eye divisions are considered the satisfactory size to purchase from the commercial grower.

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