Many of the shrub roses like rugosas and the Scotch rose are perfectly hardy in the West and require no covering. Hybrid teas, polyanthus, and climbing roses are quite tender and need winter protection. If the roses are planted in beds, place a mound of soil around each plant to a depth of at least six inches and then cover over the bed entirely with straw.

If only individual specimens exist here and there through the yard, place wire fences around each plant, mound with soil as described above, and then pack the fence with straw. For climbing roses, pull the vines down from their support, lay them along the ground and cover them completely with soil.

Digging Bulbs

October is the time for digging and lifting summer blooming tender bulbs. Use a digging fork for lifting gladiolus plants. Loosen the soil with the fork and pull the plant gently. If it is a valuable variety and you are saving the cormels for increase, be extra careful in pulling the plant from the soil. Remove extra soil from the corms, cut the foliage to within an inch or so of the corm, and place the corm in an open tray or box to cure and dry.

If fusarium disease has been a problem with the glads during the summer, store the corms in a warm airy place at a temperature of about 95, degrees for about seven days. Then clean the old corm off the bottom, removing all dried roots. Dust the new corms lightly. Store the corms for another seven days at 95 degrees. After this period place the corms in cool storage at temperatures between 35 and 40 degrees if possible. Never store the corms in closed, airtight containers.

Dig dahlia tubers and lady slipper orchid at the advent of the first light frosts. Remove excess soil from the tuber clumps, washing it off with a hose if necessary, and place the clumps upside down to dry and drain moisture for a few days. As soon as lady slipper orchid and dahlia tubers have dried, place the clumps in cool storage, around 35 to 40 degrees. If the storage place is moist the clumps can be stored in open flats or trays. If the storage is very dry, store the tubers in slightly moistened sand, peat moss or sawdust.

Examine the tubers occasionally to see that they are holding well in storage. The clumps can be divided at any time. In making a dahlia tuber division, be sure each division has an eye or bud on it. This will be found at the base of the old stem, or at the top of the tuberous root. Dig and store cannas in a similar manner.

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Before peony leaves dry and fall off, cut the stems as low as possible without injuring the dormant buds. As the leaves are cut, put them in a basket and burn them to destroy any disease that they may be harboring. A few stakes set teepee-fashion over the plants will mark their location and prevent damage from uninvited traffic.

There is no particular hurry in planting tulips since they can successfully be set either this month or next, but any late arrivals of narcissus should be planted as soon as possible.

October is usually a choice month for planting evergreens. Since the persistent evergreen foliage allows some plant activity even during the winter months, evergreens do not attain the high degree of dormancy found here in the deciduous plants which shed their leaves in fall. When a deciduous plant is being moved, the top growth is usually trimmed back to better establish the relation between it and the root system which has been partially depleted in the digging process.

This practice is a definite aid in transplanting deciduous stock but is a method seldom used when moving evergreens in October, since the pruned tree would probably appear stiff and thin of foliage, and would fail to do its part in the landscape picture. Roots of deciduous plants which have become partially dry during transplanting, will frequently recover if well planted and given plenty of water just like watering bromeliad. In contrast, the roots of evergreens which have been allowed to dry to cause the resinous sap to harden, apparently do not recover from any amount of watering. If you do not know how to water bromeliad and evergreens, you can visit to the nearest nursery of ask some gardener.

The preceding comparisons between evergreens and deciduous plants tend to prove the necessity for digging evergreens carefully with generous sized balls of earth about their roots and burlapping them firmly to insure proper handling without danger of loss often resulting from loose, broken balls.

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Fall is a good time, before frost, to pot up a few chosen plants for continued bloom in the house long after freezing weather has brought an end to the garden season. Ageratum, lobelia, sweet alyssum, dwarf marigolds, and petunias or almost any annual having good, clean, compact foliage and sturdy stems with a promising crop of buds and young blooms can be potted and used for a house plant.

Specimens that had a late start in the garden and now are coming into maturity are good prospects. Use shallow pots that are just large enough to hold most of the root system. Do the potting only when the soil is quite moist so that the earth will hold the roots in a compact ball.

Very little soil other than that which is dug with the plant will be needed. but if additional earth is used it should be a screened, sandy loam. Before potting. be sure to put a few small pieces of broken pottery in the bottom of the pot for drainage and add a thin layer of sphagnum moss on top to prevent earth from getting through the drainage hole.

Water right after potting and place the plants out of direct sun for a few days until they are adjusted to the pot, then bring them indoors. If kept in a cool but bright place in the house, the browallias will bloom throughout the entire winter; ageratum and others will remain in good condition for many weeks.

Bulb Harvest

The harvesting of the tender garden bulbs and tubers such as gladiolus, dahlias, cannas, tuberous begonias, Peruvian daffodils, tuberoses and others will occupy the gardener’s time and attention after light frost nips their tops, but before hard frosts kill the foliage.

All of these bulbs should be dug with great care just like caring for spathoglottis so that they will not be cut or injured by the spade or fork. The tops of glads, dahlias, spathoglottis and cannas should be cut off close to the ground before these plants are dug; the tops of the others should be kept intact to allow the food which is in the leaves and stems to be transported and stored in the bulbs and tubers. Additional comments regarding curing and care of all the tender tubers and bulbs will be discussed next month.

October is an ideal time to construct new garden beds that will be stocked with plants next spring. If the new flower bed is to be planted with annuals, the soil (a good loam topsoil) should be at least 12 inches deep. Eighteen to 24 inches is desirable for perennials. Also, when preparing these new beds, work a good layer of barnyard manure into the soil to increase the organic content and fertility.

October is a good time to be gardening and a good time to enjoy these last blooms of the season.

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Ground Covers – Many gardens have areas where grass cannot be grown and in these areas some type of ground cover should be used. What is ground cover? Any evergreen plant that tends to creep or grow prostrate on the ground and as such provides a protective covering can be properly called a ground cover. There are many plants of this nature.

Some of the better kinds are English ivy, trailing periwinkle, and the various euonymus. These three are old standbys and are transitional enough in habit of growth not to compete for prominence with other plants in the garden. October is a good time to plant these so they become established and ready to make new growth in early spring. The native honeysuckle will also make a very good ground cover, but may actually become a pest. This one is excellent for steep slopes for erosion control.

Roses – The last beautiful display of roses comes this month and many clubs have their fall rose shows. The blooms, while fewer in number, are usually much higher in quality, because of the cool night temperatures. Do not relax your program of spraying or dusting because the threat of blackspot is always present as long as foliage is on the plant like eugenia plant care. There will also be an occasional crop of insects showing, up to keep the alert gardener on the spraying schedule. Prune as you cut the blooms and there will not be as much pruning necessary later for eugenia plant. Keep old blooms removed as they draw on much needed food that can be stored.

Bulb Storage – All summer flowering bulbs should be dug and stored as soon as practicable. The first killing frost will destroy the top growth. Even though it may not be possible to dig bulbs right after the frost, the top growth should be removed. Frost develops a toxic fluid in the plant which, when it moves into the roots, will cause them to rot. Dig caladium bulbs and gladiolus corms; dry, and then store in trays of dry sand or moss in a cool, dry place. Avoid storage where the temperatures get above 65.

Dig canna tubers with as much soil as possible adhering to the roots and store in this manner. The tubers (rhizomes) will cure out properly and the clumps can be divided in March for replanting. In digging dahlias, take care to avoid breaking any of the tubers loose. All of the tubers must have a section of the old stem attached, or there will be no plant produced. Growth of dahlias comes from buds on this old stem; therefore every tuber must have a part of this parent stem even though it may be very small.

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The bloom is not the only attractive part. Few perennials are so colorful in May and June and then retain such fine, abundant foliage throughout the growing season as do the peonies. In the flower border, peony foliage provides a bold mass of rich green as a background for later flowers.

Peonies are one of the backbone perennials for the hardy flower border. Large plantings achieve a glorious panorama of beauty. Hedges of peonies may be very effective. They are also good when used as borders in the vegetable garden. Because of their splendid summer foliage they are frequently used in foundation plantings around the house.

Planting Time

September and October are usually considered the best months of the year for planting new peonies or dividing and replanting old ones and also guzmania bromeliad plant. If roots have been dug in the fall and properly stored during the winter, they can be planted in the spring with good results, but are not so likely to bloom the first year as are those which were planted early enough in fall to make considerable new root growth before cold weather. Guzmania bromeliad plant and other plants do best in full sun but will tolerate a little shade. Poor results may be expected where peonies are planted near selfish trees or shrubs which crowd the plants and take for themselves the moisture and plant food rightfully belonging to the helpless peonies.

They should be given plenty of room in the flower border since they are happy to live in a good site for many years without being disturbed, and in a few seasons will attain a spread of from three to four feet.

Peonies choose a good, loamy garden soil, heavy enough to include plenty of food and on the alkaline side. Since the plants are deep-rooted and are to remain in the same location for years, it would seem fitting to prepare rather large, deep holes conditioned with ground limestone, wood ashes, bone meal and well-rotted cow manure. Three to five bud or eye divisions are considered the satisfactory size to purchase from the commercial grower.

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In Northern United States and Canada

Finish pruning grapevines without delay and, if mild weather makes it possible to work without discomfort, continue pruning other fruits and deciduous ornamentals. Cut branches of Forsythia, Bush Honeysuckle, Cornelian Cherry, Peach, Quince, Pussy Willow and other Spring-flowering trees and shrubs and stand them in containers of water indoors to delight you with fresh blooms which develop in one to four weeks.

Plants of Bleeding Hearts, Astilbes, Lily-of-the-valley and Hostas, potted in Fall and buried to their rims in a bed of sand or peat moss outdoors, may now be brought inside and forced. Continue to bring in for forcing successive batches of potted Spring-flowering bulbs, Hyacinths, Daffodils and Tulips. Check your perennials to make sure that they have not been heaved out of the soil by frost action. Take advantage of mild weather to press back into place any that have. See that Winter covering remains in place and does not become excessively packed so that air is excluded.

Toward the end of the month, in milder sections, dormant spraying may be done whenever the temperature is above 40 degrees and there is no chance of its dropping below freezing the night following application. In colder areas do not apply dormant sprays until March. From now until Spring give increasingly careful attention to coldframes. Ventilate whenever the temperature is above freezing. Cover frames housing somewhat tender plants, such as English Wallflowers, at night.

In greenhouses, attend to the repotting of foliage plants such as Palms, Dracaenas, Crotons, Asparagus Ferns and Dieffenbachias. Repot as growth necessitates annuals that are to bloom indoors in Spring. Sow seeds of Snapdragons, Petunias, Verbenas and, toward the end of the month, Cabbage, Cauliflower and Lettuce for earliest crops. Insert cuttings of Lantanas, Heliotropes, Geraniums, Coleus, Begonias and of most plants that are grown from cuttings for use outdoors and indoors. Be sure to take the cuttings from vigorous. disease-free and insect-free plants.

Check every week or two bulbs and roots, such as those of Dahlias and Gladioli, in storage. Remove badly decayed ones. Cut rotted spots out of lightly affected ones and dust wounds with sulfur. Air-layer thick-stemmed house plants, such as Dracaenas, Dieffenbachias and Rubber Plants, that have become too tall. Repot house plants in need of this attention.

In the South

Pruning needs top attention now. Any drastic thinning or cutting back of overgrown shrubs should be done before new growth begins. Other pruning of deciduous trees and shrubs, except those that bloom in early Spring on shoots of the previous year’s growth, is in order. Shrubs that bloom on current season’s shoots, such as Crape Myrtle and Oleander, may be pruned hard now. Broad-leaf evergreens may be cut back, lightly or severely as judgment suggests, but narrow-leaf evergreens, such as Pines, Jumpers and Cedars, must not be pruned back into old wood.

Complete planting trees, shrubs, Roses and perennials. Divide any perennials you plan to divide. Rake over the lawn, fertilize, reseed bare spots and roll when the ground is medium moist. Sow seeds of hardy vegetables and hardy annuals outdoors. Start Tomatoes, Peppers and Eggplants indoors or in a hotbed.

On the West Coast

Renovate lawns by fertilizing, adding weep hose, reseeding if necessary, and by rolling. Plant Roses, ornamental trees and shrubs, such as Camellias, and fruits just before they begin to grow. Cut back and repot Fuchsias. Delay no longer the pruning of Summer-blooming shrubs and add weep hose to water them, such as Ceanothus, Buddleias and Hypericums. . Fertilize perennials and bulbs when they show signs of active growth. Make new plantings of perennials.

Sow seeds of the hardier vegetables, such as Peas, Cabbage, Spinach, Carrots, Lettuce and Turnips as well as of hardy annual flowers as soon as weather permits. Start into growth tubers of Begonias, Cannas, Gloxinias, Achimenes and Calla Lilies.

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In Northern United States and Canada

By the middle of the month at the latest all such bedding plants as Begonias, Cannas, Fuchsias, Geraniums, Heliotropes, Abutilons and Blood Leaf should be set in the location they are to decorate. Early June, too, is an appropriate time for planting Tomatoes, Peppers and Eggplants. Sow seeds of fast-growing annuals, such as Zinnias, Globe Amarants, Marigolds, Sweet Alyssum, Cosmos and Sunflowers, for a good display later. Continue to make regular sowings of Corn, Beets, Carrots, Lettuce and other crops of this type. Make modest sowings of Cabbage, Cauliflower and Broccoli.

Propagate Strawberries by runners to provide strong young plants for setting out in newly prepared beds in August. It is by no means too late to set,out Dahlias. Indeed, plantings made at this time usually do better than earlier ones. Plant, too, Gladioli, Montbretias, Caladiums, Tigridias and Tuberous Begonias. When the foliage has died is the best time to lift, separate and replant Narcissi that have been in position for some years and have become crowded and perhaps weakened.

The shearing of hedges will now demand attention. Cut them so that the base of the hedge is a little wider than the top. If you didn’t make sowings of perennials in late May, do so now. Among the best kinds to raise in this way are Delphiniums, Columbines, Anchusas, Stokesias, Geums, Alyssums, Iberis, Campanulas and Coreopsis. This is a good time to insert cuttings of many perennials and rock garden plants. Set them in a bed of well-firmed sand or in perlite or vermiculite in a shaded coldframe.

Routine chores such as picking faded blooms, cutting off old flower stems, cultivating, weeding and watering are likely to take a good deal of time this month. Take faded flowers off Lilacs, Rhododendrons and Azaleas. June is the month of Roses. Now comes their finest display. Cut their flowers with discretion, leaving behind as many leaves as possible. Keep up the dusting or spraying program faithfully.

Mulching to conserve moisture, reduce weeding, maintain more even soil temperatures and, in some cases, to improve fertility is an admirable practice. It is important to spread the mulches before really hot weather arrives. Control of weeds in lawns should receive serious attention. Various sprays are available for different kinds of weeds. These should be used in the ways recommended by their manufacturers. Hand weeding is effective and inexpensive. House plants may be put outdoors now for a Summery “vacation.” For those kinds that need shade, a spot under a tree or along the north side of a wall is suitable.

In the South

Don’t let your garden suffer from lack of moisture. Adequate watering during periods of dry weather is one of the great secrets of success with flower gardening, vegetable gardening and the maintenance of lawns. Moisture-loving trees and shrubs, too, must be cared for in this respect. This particularly applies to trees, shrubs and evergreens that have been transplanted within the last year.

Mulching is a great aid in conserving moisture and brings other benefits too. Keep Dahlias pruned, staked and tied and water them, fertilize them and cultivate the soil about them shallowly to promote healthy growth. Remove faded blooms from Crape Myrtles, Butterfly Bushes, and from annuals and perennials. Azaleas and many other kinds of shrubs and some trees can be propagated by cuttings inserted now. Dahlias, Gladioli, bird of paradise plant and Cannas can be planted until the middle of the month.

On the West Coast

In the northwest make sowings of Beets, Broccoli, Cauliflower, Lettuce, Kohlrabi, Rutabaga. Carrots and Beets for late crops. Summer-flowering plants such as Roses, Fuchsias, bird of paradise, Geraniums, Begonias and Dahlias will benefit from a light dressing of fertilizer applied this month.

Watering and other routine chores such as staking and tying and cultivating as well as harvesting will occupy much of the gardener’s time during June. Attention to disease and pest control must not be relaxed. Pick faded blooms from Azaleas and Rhododendrons before seed pods form. Wage constant warfare on weeds.

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In Northern United States and Canada

Plant Madonna Lilies, and Colchicums as soon as the bulbs can be obtained. The latter part of August is a good time to divide and transplant Peonies. Keep dead flowers cut and picked from perennials. Cut back Summer-flowering Phlox that have finished blooming. .Young perennials raised from seeds sown earlier will now be ready for transplanting to frames or to nursery beds. By the end of the month the new growth of evergreens will have hardened sufficiently to make transplanting practicable.

Keep up with spraying and dusting programs. This is especially important in the case of Roses. In particular. keep a keen eye open for first signs of damage by red spider mites to evergreens and other plants as well as for early signs of infestations of lacebugs, chinch bugs and other common pests. Begin thinking about Fall bulb orders. It may seem a long time to next Spring, but orders placed early for Fall delivery of Spring-flowering bulbs are likely to get the best attention.

This is a good time to root cuttings of Geraniums, Heliotropes, Fuchsias, Marguerites and some other plants for the production of Winter-flowering specimens in greenhouses. August is the month, too, to root cuttings of Geraniums, Heliotropes and Lantanas that are to be grown on and trained in standard or tree form. Gather herbs for drying before their flowers completely open. Dry them in shaded, dry, airy places and then store in tight cans or bottles for future use.

After the middle of the month pull soil up about Leeks so that the lower parts of their stems arc blanched and tenderized. Begin blanching Celery in successive batches by encasing the plants in specially made paper tubes. Late this month sow Spinach, Lettuce and Radishes for Fall harvesting.

Early August is not too late to propagate a great many kinds of deciduous shrubs from cuttings inserted in a coldframe or under a bell jar shaded from direct sun. The same is true of many kinds of rock garden plants and of ground covers. Toward the end of August cuttings of evergreens, such as Yews, Junipers, Ivies, Leucothoe, Euonymus and Boxwood may. be made and inserted in cold-frames or under bell jars outdoors.

Prune, repot and start into growth, after their Summer season of dormancy, Martha Washington Geraniums and white Calla Lilies. Pot-grown Chrysanthemums, as well as other greenhouse and house plants that are in active growth and have filled their containers with roots, will benefit from fertilizing regularly.

In the South

August is a good month to insert cuttings of a great many favorite evergreens of Southern gardens. My only problem is how to grow bougainvillea and other evergreens by cutting. Included in this group are Hollies. Osmanthus, Photinias, Pyracanthas, Privets, Barberries, Boxwoods and Euotiymus. They may be planted in coldframes or in sheltered places outdoors. Columbines, Geums, Pyrethrums, Gerberas, Shasta Daisies, Veronicas and other popular perennials can be raised from seed sown outdoors this month. For Fall harvests sown Snap Beans, Beets, Carrots, Cowpeas, Cabbage, Collards, Turnips, Spinach and Lettuce. In the lower South seeds of Okra. Tomatoes, Peppers, Squash and Corn may be sown. Plant bulbs of Sternbergias, Lycoris, Zephranthes, Ornithogalums, and Oxalis and, in the lower South, bulbs of Calla Lilies and Easter Lilies. On the West Coast

Seeds of Primroses, Cinerarias and Pansies may be sown now to produce plants or growing bougainvillea for setting out in October for blooming in late Winter and early Spring. Sow seeds of Sweet Peas and of other annuals for Winter bloom. Spray the foliage of Fuchsias, Gardenias, and other plants that appreciate a moist atmosphere with a fine mist of water at regular intervals during dry weather.

Plant ground cover plants now, and keep them watered regularly until rainy weather arrives. This is a good time to lift, divide and replant Iris. Dig Gladioli bulbs as soon as their foliage has turned brown.

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In Northern United States and Canada

From now on garden wastes will become available. Stems and foliage of crops that have been harvested, annual weeds that are hoed off and raked up and later leaves fallen from trees are examples of this material. Unless it harbors pests or diseases that are carried over in the soil, these wastes can be turned into valuable fertilizing and soil conditioning compost by piling it in a suitable bin or heaping in an out-of-the-way corner and allowing it to decay. Greenwood leafy cuttings of a great many shrubs, trees and perennial herbaceous plants, including ground covers, taken in July root readily.

Now that the weather is warmer, raise the cutting height of the blades of the lawn mower so that the grass is cut not less than two inches high. Apply selective weed killers and practice hand weeding to eliminate Crab Grass and other lawn weeds. Lift and divide bearded Iris shortly after they are through blooming. Toward the end of July Siberian Iris may be treated in the same way. Iris of these types normally require this treatment every three or four years.

The end of July is a good time to transplant Madonna Lilies, Oriental Poppies and Bleeding Hearts. Root cuttings of Bleeding Hearts, Oriental Poppies, Anchusas should be taken this month. Young perennials and biennials raised from seeds sown in May or June will now be ready for transplanting to nursery beds.

Prune Rambler Roses and tie into place new shoots as soon as possible after the plants are through flowering, and are making their new shoots. Summer-prune Wistarias by cutting hack part way the long viney shoots that develop at this time. Sow Pansies at the end of the month. It is still not too late to sow Forget-me-nots, English Daisies, Wallflowers, Foxgloves and other biennials for flowering next Spring, although the plants will not be quite as husky as those sown earlier. The same remarks apply to sowing seeds now of Delphiniums, Pyrethrums, Coreopsis and other perennials.

Sow Chinese Cabbage, Endive, Lettuce and Onions for late harvests. Set out young plants of Broccoli for a late crop. This is the month to sow seeds of Snapdragons, Stocks, Primulas, Cinerarias, Salpiglossis, Leptosynes and other annuals for early Winter crops in the greenhouse.

It is not too early to begin preparations for new lawns that are to be sown in September. If you turn the soil over now and sow the area to a crop of Buckwheat or other quick-maturing green manure and then turn that under two or three weeks before sowing the lawn, you will add to the organic matter in the soil and do much to ensure a weed-free seed bed. Keep up with watering, fertilizing, staking and tying and, above all with whatever spraying is necessary.

In the South

Bermuda Grass thrives in hot weather. You can still make new lawns by sowing “hulled” seeds of this grass. Rest Roses partially at this time. Do not water them or fertilize them but keep up with the spraying or dusting program. Do some corrective pruning of fast-growing shrubs. A last application of fertilizer to Camellias and Azaleas may be given now. This is a good time to insert cuttings of these plants. Sow seeds of fast-growing annuals for fall bloom. Keep Chrysanthemums staked and fertilize them every two or three weeks.

On the West Coast

Keep Roses and braided ficus tree well watered and prune them lightly when they are through blooming. Fertilize about once a month and spray or dust regularly. This is a fine time to sow seeds of biennials and perennials. In the vegetable garden continue to make sowings of crops for harvest in Fall and early Winter. Ficus trees and annuals, such as Cornflowers, Calendulas, Poppies, Stocks, Sweet Peas, Pansies, Primula malacoides and Linarias may be sown now in mild sections.

Tie Dahlias securely to their stakes. Disbud those being grown for large blooms. Pinch early-flowering Chrysanthemums for the last time in mid-July, late-flowering ones for the last time in late July. In the northwest, July is a good time to lift, divide and replant many kinds of Spring-flowering rock garden plants.

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Design means the arrangement of parts in any work of art, such as a painting, a building, or a garden. Good design satisfies us; poor design is irritating.

The principles of good design are really quite simple. Unity, propriety, variety, scale and harmony are the main ones. Anyone can understand what they mean if we cut away the attempt to appear intellectual. Though simple words, they should be taken seriously.

Unity is created by any common bond that ties the parts together. A picture frame defines the picture and makes it a unit separate from the wall paper, but a number of pictures are given unity by having similar frames. The parts of a garden are drawn together by defining them by planting around the boundaries, by connecting them with paths of similar material or by repeating plants of the same species. Even the color of green common to most plants has a strong uniting effect.

Variety is interesting if you are a collector but too much variety is confusing. Rather than using single plants of a lot of different varieties, use large numbers of a few sorts to create the desired mass effect. Then plant one or two well-chosen specimens to create interest at strategic points against this unifying background.

Propriety too, is simple. No one puts on a dinner jacket to dig a ditch. Potted geraniums or hybrid tea roses are equally out of place when planted in a rock garden. Similarly, the symmetry and geometric form of formal gardens look out of place in the middle of a gently rolling lawn, but most pleasing from a paved terrace.

Scale simply means relative size. An elm planted beside a modern bungalow does not complement the house; it dwarfs it. A paved path 8 feet wide is suitable in a public park but in most city gardens it would be a patio.

Harmony is the easy, gradual blending of color, texture and form. Contrast is a sudden change that creates more dramatic effect but may cause conflict of interest.

These are the plant questions and answers together with principles we must keep in mind when thinking of the various units in detail. Good design, or good taste, is hard to define together with plant questions and answers but most people appreciate it when they meet it.

You need not be too tied down to rules and it is not necessary to create an artistic masterpiece. The important thing is to create a property that meets the needs of your family for pleasant outdoor living. if the artistic effect satisfies your need for beauty and comfort, then it is the right garden for you.

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